Tuesday, March 29, 2016

Dogs: Reflecting on Korean culture and myself




*Warning: this is a potentially controversial post. I think animal rights activists and Korean nationalists alike could read this an find fault. And yet here it is, uploaded here for you to choose to read, because I had to get this out of my circling loopdy-loo brain. I'm conflicted.
So.
Conflicted.
Okay, this is so true... but not related.
And what I'm about to write is actually really serious so... no more funny gifs. Let Mindy fill you up and then read on.

Let's stop dancing around. Here we go.
I am about 98% certain that several of the farms around me raise dogs for meat.
That's quite an assumption, young missy.
It is an assumption, but after biking past these few farms almost every day for over 7 months, and seeing rows of cramped cages with dogs inside that never move or do anything but bark, right in front of the cows they are "raising" stuck inside in a reflected formation and comparable living standards? Yeah, these dogs aren't for playdates.
Yes, some people eat dogs in Korea. Now I know that this is super sensitive. If you don't know it's sensitive, check out the response to that infamous comic production thing, "The Interview".
Or I can break it down for you: Loud Westerner condemns (so-called) backward lesser foreigner culture (Korean) for eating dog. Korean immediately denies that they eat dog and are civilized and not backwards and just shut up Westerner.
Yes, the vast majority of Koreans have never had dog meat. Any student I've asked is abhorred about eating dog meat (Unless they're being smart about how hungry they are, and they literally claim to eat anything I suggest, slug book rock Gabby-teacher included) And I've taught a good 450 kids at this point. And this is the "countryside". Korean city-folk are even more likely to proclaim disgust about dog meat and Seoulites especially like to point the blame for dog meat to the country.
To my knowledge it's actually becoming illegal if not strongly discouraged by the government (precisely because they don't want the big loud Westerner to call their culture lesser). Yet people still do eat dog meat. Who? Probably elderly people or tourists. I don't know.

The scary thing is, when I bike past these rows of cages with barking dogs inside, I am incredibly indifferent. The once absurdly outspoken animal-lover in me, shuts up.

Why?

Earlier in one my first video calls home since moving out to my own house in Aug/Sept and when I was just discovering my new neighborhood in farmland Hwacheon, I was not in the best mood, and snapped at my parents when they said something like "poor dogs" after hearing my descriptions. Honestly, after a long work day, the overwhelming noise of dogs barking is scary and unsettling and, in that moment, made me hate them. I still remember this conversation because after I snapped, my parents stayed very quiet and still, and I knew I had shocked them. I had changed.

Once again, why? Why, Gabby??

Hmm. Because it'd honestly be so hypocritical of me to claim that putting dogs in cages to eat is inhuman when I am so very well aware of the conditions of any other meat/dairy item I consume.




There are documentaries about it. We make children's movies about it. We know that lives for chickens and pigs and cows really really really sucks. Factory farms feed our ever demanding demand for more. It's all over our media and surrounding our senses. We know. Does that stop everyone from getting their terriyaki/taco/steak/burger/meatloverspizza fix? No. Some people, sure. The vast majority, no.



Even learning about things like the greenhouse gases of cow farms and environmental problems really freaks me out, yet I still eat that meat. A cynical part of me knows that if I refuse that pork dumpling, someone else will eat it or it'll go to waste anyways. I can't bring that animal or this animal back to life by not eating food thats already prepared.

Let's take an unnecessary look at my life shall we?

I ate meat growing up because my mom served me meat in some meals, and I don't turn down Mom's food (it's the best).

I was vegetarian freshman year of college when I celebrated finally getting to choose what goes on my plate in the dining halls.

In sophomore year, I learned that to be culturally adaptable and unburden-some when studying abroad in Asia (and many other foreign countries) just accept what your host family eats (and honestly most restaurants won't know how to really deal with you as a vegetarian abroad) so, valuing world and cultural experience over unsustainable "hippie" animal protection, I weaned back to the meats.

Even after returning to meat, I don't qualify as a meat-lover. The animal products I regularly use in my kitchen this year are basically limited to eggs and milk (also because meat is $$$ and tofu/no meat saves me so much $$$). In our school's "company dinners" 회식 we often get Korean barbecue and grill meat, but other than that, I could be back to veggie me of 5+ years afore.



Back to the dogs. Beyond feeling hypocritical about condemning how farmers treat any animal here, I have noticed my general perception of dogs changing. Korea was not a very "pet-loving" country for a while. A lot has changed over the past few decades, as you can see from Simon and Martina's recounting of their first years teaching here around 2008-2013 and comparing the pet culture to their first days in Japan in 2016, or even in the growth of animal friendly recreation with animal cafes and whatnot.

Even though Korea has become much more accepting of pets, there are some strong-held beliefs that many people here still hold onto (in my observations).

1) Big dogs are scary.
From Seoul, to Hwacheon, I rarely see people taking big dogs for walks. The majority of dogs I see in public are tiny, cute, "unthreatening" breeds. I have seen some wonderfully cared for dogs of all sizes in a dog cafe in Busan (more of a, owner's out, dog go socialize in this cafe with people who pay to watch/pet/adore you)
Photo credit to Monica ~

Every once in a while, I'll see a bigger breed in Seoul, but the smaller dogs are simply more desired. (And the smaller "cute" dogs I see are treated comparable to how they are treated in America, doted on, carried around, shown off, dressed up, given Instagram accounts. So number 2 doesn't apply to them (most small dogs))


2) Dogs aren't indoor friendly. Or "man's best friend".
In Hwacheon, there's tons of houses with a medium-sized dog or two or three as a "pet" but they are always outside, and more often than not, on a tiny chain/leash. All. the. time. Truly.
I know Leanndra's host family last year let their dogs inside (at least in the mud room/sheltered area) when it was winter, but all the farm houses around where I live now left their dogs out in the cold all winter long. I never see kids playing with dogs or really any humans interacting with their dogs left outside unless it's to give their food (leftovers usually). And forget regular baths as well (again, Leanndra's host family is an exception, I heard stories of their washing adventures and we all socialized with her dogs often). It's just such a different mindset here. The dogs for the family below me are basically just to bark at the crows and mockingbirds that could come to potentially eat the crops/grains. It they don't do their job, the mother comes out and scolds them. I think these dogs could be viewed as workers just to guard. Their only duty is to bark. Not be a companion or friend. Just bark at everything.

I can't deny it, this mindset has been rubbing off on me too. Me, who begged for a dog my whole childhood and loves every one of my friend's furry friends back home. I get easily spooked by these dirty, mistreated dogs on chains in front of their houses (or caged for whatever reason...). They bark every time I go past and it's never a friendly sound. A few months ago, the nearby farms covered the front of the cow barn and dog cages so I can't see the animals, but I still can hear them. Not seeing them just makes me more indifferent. My bike has been squeaking more this past month, which just makes the dogs go more crazy as I bike up the hill. So I try to bike past as fast as I can.

Sigh.
I know this post will set many of you readers off, as if I have brushed you the wrong way, sprayed something in your eye, scraped metal on metal. I apologize. I truly just wanted to write about this change within my mind that is twisting my heart.

If you are in Korea and have a different view on how dogs are treated, let me know. What is it like where you live? Hwacheon certainly isn't all of Korea.

If you are in another country please collect your thoughts and try to be reflective as you write your response (I do want to know your response!) Just please don't be too quick to condemn this culture you probably don't fully understand.

Before I leave you, thinking about how to process a very different culture and poor Gabby's inner turmoil, I have a ray of starlight. A chunk of rainbow in this sad gloomy post. There is this one farm-house I bike past on my way to town, and they recently got an adorable little puppy (yes they leave it outside, in this rounded meshed off area). It's so fluffy and happy, every time it hears my bike approach its little tail starts wagging crazily and it bounds around waiting for me to say hello. This little puppy has saved me from thoughts like, "Do I hate all dogs now? Am I truly heartless?"
By not terrifying me with barking and teeth, this puppy just want to be loved, and I have stopped every morning and evening, no matter how late I am or exhausted, and I recharge my happiness cuddling this little fluff-ball.
I'm worried as it never seems to eat the bowl of dog food and it must be so bored stuck in a the same circle outside everyday. But I haven't met the family who lives at that house, and I don't want to overstep myself by bringing different food or just messing with their pet too much. It's just the sweetest thing~ I hope it will have a happy life full of love~

It doesn't actually look like this... but it's just as angelic. Maybe I'll update this post soon with REAL PICTURES OF ME WITH THIS ANGEL PUP!
Updated! This little one wouldn't stay still so it's not the best... But you can still tell how cute it is~~

Musing complete. Really let me know what you think please~ it means a lot to me. Scold me for not saving them. Console me for my fears. Judge me for my weird reasoning. Praise me for finally realizing dogs are evil (cough Morgan cough).
Please just remember to not judge this culture that is complex and full of a history very different from the one you may know.

Bye~~~~

Gabby, conflicted animal lover


Friday, March 25, 2016

The magic of small towns: An Ode to Hwacheon

Hi there~



It's been a while right? I suppose we've been lost in the flow of life. The new school year is well underway here and I have about 4 blog posts that are partially written... but I've just never sat down to keep writing and upload them (yet).

Most of those unfinished posts are about adventures I've had in the great big city, Seoul, but in the end I'm writing a post about my home in Korea, Hwacheon. When it comes to my blog, I like to upload fun stories from exciting experiences, but don't be fooled. Like my last post hopefully conveyed, there's some treasures in the countryside of Korea as well.

A post about my wonderful little wedge of Korea seems to unwind from my thoughts so much smoother as I type. This week has made me truly fall in love (again) with Hwacheon town and surrounding area.

I've been reading this book set in the highlands of Malaya and it is so gorgeously written, I keep overlapping its imagery with Hwacheon on my daydreaming bike-rides home after work. (Seriously read it! It's 'The Garden of Evening Mists' by Tan Twang Eun.)

My Hwacheon Elementary counterpart, Wei, lent me the book last month, which makes it that much dearer to me. 

Wei has had a rough last couple of weeks as an unexpected health complication arose. For the betterment of her health and the peace of her family's hearts, Wei has left Korea early to heal back home in America. She said her goodbyes to all her fifth grade students who flooded the English room at school on this past Wednesday. I'm going to miss her a lot but also am happy she's making a decision that's best for her health and wellness.

One thing is for certain, our school life has changed a lot with her departure. With the nature of the Fulbright program, there was no way for our school to have a replacement teacher until the next round of accepted grantees come to Korea (in August). Our old schedule had me teaching 3rd and 4th grade with my coteacher, Sunny twice a week, while Wei would've taught 5th and 6th grade with her new coteacher, Sungsil two/three times a week. As Wei would've had more class hours, I was put in charge of all the after school classes (7 a week). Now, to make things fair for all the students, I am spread among all the grades studying English, meeting them all once a week for official classes. And after school classes have stayed the same.

This was not only a big change for me to adjust to, but also for the English coteachers, who now teach by themselves for every class once a week as well (I can't be in two places as once as much as I wish I could). Sunny, my coteacher was particularly stressed about the students revolting without the "fun foreigner" teacher, but in the end she is realizing how much they love her too. It's not easy, but she's doing well.

I had my own stress dreams last weekend, and honestly, Monday of this past week was rough. I was preoccupied thinking about the schedule changes and didn't give my 3rd grade after-schoolers my full attention, which resulted in chaos. I teach after school classes by myself, and have been fine with small classes from 1-12 students the past year and a half. But the 3rd grade after school class this year has 30 students registered, and as 3rd graders have only just begun learning English, I use a lot of Korean to explain our activities. And my Korean is far from perfect, so it's easy to get frustrated and if my attention isn't focused, lose control.

So yes. Poor Gabby. Life is rough.

While I was busy self-obsessing and boo-hooing some magical force within Hwacheon persisted to snap me out of it. This week was so full of magic and wonder that by Tuesday there was nothing to stop my grins.

Monday, on my tearful bike ride home, I came across three of my 4th grade boys playing by one of the small rivers' dams. I waved and they immediately shouted for me to come down and see what they had discovered. Still in a daze from work, I scooted down the rocks that led to the riverbank, already smiling despite myself. These boys are some of the most troublesome in their grade, and this was the first time I've seen any students playing outside on my bike trail home.

They eagerly explained that what they had just found was something really dangerous, and if humans eat it they die, and how they barely caught it with old reeds and sticks. I could only follow so much of their rushed explanation, and I sure have no idea what that thing was, but it looked kind of like burnt shoelaces. One of the boys, Yongha, crushed it with a rock to the cheering of his companions.

Then the other boy remembered the fish they had caught. Soon they we recounting this capture story (they caught the fish with their hands!), and dragging me to see the fish they claimed were huge. It took us a while to find the right crevice in the rocks, and they were very disappointed to discover that one fish escaped while another had died, but they held up their last living prisoner proudly for me to admire. It was about the size of my middle finger.

As much as I wanted to sob in desperation about work, that encounter let me smirking and full of love for those little, funny demons.

Tuesday morning as I biked into town, I got mud splashed on my pants and almost ran into one of the dump trucks cleaning up the ice festival remains, so I negatively jumped to the conclusion that that day would end up just as awful as the previous day.



Full of nervous energy and frustration, I parked my bike and started trudging around the school to the teacher entrance. One of the 3rd grade boys who was in the failure after school class suddenly ran out a side door pointed to the sky and shouted to his friend. When no one came out after him, he quickly pulled in the closest person he could find, me. He shouted rainbow! and dragged me to his vantage point. Sure enough, right in the middle of the sky was a chunk of rainbow, pretty as can be.

Hwacheon magic was at it again. With that rainbow in mind, I went through my classes with a continually improving mood until I had the 4th and 6th grade after school classes. They were absolutely perfect. Feeling immensely relieved that maybe I'm not a terrible teacher and person, I met my friend Susan for our weekly workout after school, and grabbed some grub in town.

When I biked home the sky was almost dark, and the last ten minutes or so I was completely enraptured by the moon. Just a day before the full moon, it was fat and eerie, surrounded by clouds and the smokey pollution of farmers burning dead crops and trash. The sky around the moon glowed golden.

Hwacheon magic at it again.

Wednesday was comparably magic-free, but it was my first time teaching my first students (I didn't teach their grade for the last full school year) so that in itself was pretty magical. I heard old nick-names I thought they had forgotten (like short ribs teacher "galbi (갈비Teacher") and felt really happy to see matching joy on their faces at our reunion. Though, the joy of seeing my old students again was made bittersweet as my counterparts Wei came (escorted by my even older counterpart Amelea) to say goodbye. Wei left safely and looked really good, so I'm just glad I had a chance to say goodbye.

Thursday work was great again, and I took a break about 2/3 of the ride to home. I relaxed, listening to the streams and watching the sun make its way down behind the mountains, and munched on snacks in this gazebo-like thing along the farmers bike trail. The sun lit every dead-looking bit of vegetation with golden halos that filled me with wonder.

Hwacheon magic at it again.
More detail on my Instagram! 

Finally the last day of this long work week came. The 3rd grade after school class was crazy as ever, but with my happy mood and full attention, we actually accomplished everything I had planned and ended the week successfully.
Now that the days are getting longer (and warmer) I went for a run along my old route from last year along the main river. The sun slowly set, and the sky was completely full of purple and pink colors peeking behind mountaintops. The rivers were fairly still so the reflection of the sky made them pastels blended with the deep blue and green shadows of the mountains. I also saw many little buds starting to make their way out again and now proclaim THE MAGIC OF SPRING IS ALMOST HERE~

My bike ride after the run was rough since my legs were already dead, but the rivers and sky retained their lavender hues, and I saw a new animal to add to my Hwacheon wildlife list! After reaching the top of a hill, right before biking down past the military ground part of my bike trail, I stopped to take a breath when a rustling made me jump. On a farm field below the trail a large furry animal bounded through the moundy rows, jumping so high I thought it was a kangaroo or jackalope (Shame on you! says my child-self who took stacks of animals books from the library every week and could recite any random fact about the randomest creature). When it finally stopped its retreat from the scary human, I could see its form better, though I still can't say for sure what it was, I guess it was a deer? If Korean deers have thicker coats and shorter legs than their American kin.

Photo credit for above.



Okay Googled it. What I saw was a water deer. Which have huge fangs you can see more of here. But I was not close enough to see any saber-teeth thank goodness.

My week was finally made perfect, with a magical cherry on top, when the last five minutes of my bike ride it started to sprinkle rain a bit. I love rain. I love Hwacheon.


To end I would like to show you the evolution of parts of Hwacheon the last two months (from ice festival to present)

First of we have nice thick ice for hundreds of people to safely walk on:


That started melting last month:

When suddenly we had a huge downpour of rain which made the rivers overflow, washing the ice up onto the sides as well:


The huge snow sculptures have yet to completely melt.


But they're getting there.


The random drain that exploded with water that froze a chuck of my bike trail

 
Well it's still melting, but the rain also dumped a ton of mud and random vegetables on that whole section. It was like quicksand I had to trudge through while walking my bike and trying not to lose my shoes.



Thankfully that has hardened and slowly dispersed.


And yeah, once again, SPRING IS ALMOST HERE. YAY (but say no to mosquitoes)

ANNYEONG








 갈비 티철이 돌아왔다~



Saturday, February 27, 2016

파로호전통찻집 - Take a trip to Paroho Tea House

IT'S TEA TIME!!

No no not that kind of tea...

...




아니라고~
Yeah no.
...



Getting warmer?

...


There we go. Much better.

I'm finally getting around to writing this review for my friend's amazing tea house. I hope it entices thousands of customers for her. I plan to submit this to various other websites I'm familiar with to spread the word, but that also means I'm going to have to tone down my crazy and pretend to be professional... a least a little bit. ... Just sometimes.. I guess I can always edit out crazy bits.. Oh forget it! This is just a normal Gabby-style post.

Also, a note before we start, most of the below pictures I took over several different trips in different seasons (obviously)... the tea shop only just opened last fall (2015) so you can see a lovely variation of early autumn to winter.


Okay here we go!


So you've found yourself in Hwacheon, or hey, maybe you've just made it to this northeast province, Gangwon-do. There's mountains and rivers and it's all so beautiful~ wouldn't a nice cup of tea just hit the spot? (yes)

Paroho Tea House is the best place to maintain the atmosphere of natural Korea and traditional culture. It's not located in a city or even one of the many countryside towns, but actually right by a traditional Korean house pension. That's it. Seriously nothing else. There's the pension and Bukhan River and mountains on mountains. Pretty wonderful right?

...
To get here you just head straight out from Hwacheon town. There's a street along the river AND a fenced off bike path that makes a great 25 minute walk or faster bike ride.
You can tell you're headed the right way because just after you leave town you'll see this epic fish and map of the bike trails around Paroho.


... 
Whether you're travelling by car, bike, or foot, you'll definitely see this gas station about half way there.


...
Keep on going~ But be sure to take your time and enjoy the view ;)


...
Finally you can kind of sort of see the tea house/pension in the distance~


...
On the bike path there will be a wooden bridge... even though it looks pretty DON'T CROSS IT. THERE IS A TROLL!! cough.. I mean once you cross it it's a long while before you can go back up to the main road... so unless you want to super backtrack... turn here to the main road!


In case you forget about my advice, there's also several hand painted signs that advertise the tea house and the pension (if you read Korean... and if you don't, there's a cute little tea cup for the wonderful universal language of art~)

This is also your first hint of my friend, Darin's super talent~ ooooh foreshadowing~


After you've made it to the main road you'll see the below two signs (which also light up at night so you can't miss it)



Take your cue and turn towards them (to the left if you're following my trail and heading there from Hwacheon). After hiking up a hill you'll see these two buildings:



Paroho Hanok (traditional Korean house) pension


AND THE TEA HOUSE!!! 
(with my ugly bike hanging out front as well..)

GO INSIDE (this is like a RPG game isn't it? Kinda?)

What do you see??





OMG this place is so cute and full of artwork!

Wait, who's this?


It's Darin of course! You may have seen her in some of my other posts, and I'm sure I've mentioned her before. She is my best friend in Hwacheon, and this whole tea house is her's! The three photos directly above this comment were all taken the day I got a message from her saying the tea house finally opened (hence the congratulatory bouquet and comparatively bare walls). 

These days the whole place is covered (seriously like every other 10cm) in traditional art like calligraphy, hand-made paper lanterns, fans, painting, and miniature pottery like you see below. But I bet you didn't know that about 99% of all these are MADE BY DARIN HERSELF.

YES SHE IS SO SO SOOOO AMAZING!!! 






 The above flower is kept alive by a bit of water in the mini bowl. Both the flower and berries/dried flowers/branches (see below) that aesthetically weave through the tea shop are all locally obtained (grown on the trees surrounding the pensions or were flowers gifted to her (my flower gift made a brief appearance too!))



Even that green fan was colored and has intricate calligraphy Darin decorated herself. See, Darin went to a special college and got a degree in traditional Korean arts, specifically tea culture, but I think she also focused on traditional writing methods. Some of the wall decor is in traditional Chinese characters, but the majority is all beautiful Korean characters, hangul.

Darin has to stay in the store all day, every day, so when she doesn't have customers and has free time, she just makes more calligraphy. (Yeah she's that casually AMAZING)




(These three photos surrounding this comment are all from Darin's Instagram~ I didn't take them)


She also wears a casual-style hanbok every day! Hanbok is Korea's traditional dress/clothing and it really helps keep the atmosphere authentic right?

You can also see in the above photo (plus a few other random ones) two teal/green tables right? Those are actually doors from old hanok (remember? traditional Korean houses) that Darin painted and use as tables and dividers for her store. She actually spent months working with her family and preparing to open this tea house. 

Don't believe me? See for yourself:




짜잔! 

(above three photos also credit to Darin)

The thing I really wish I could explain to you all is how charming all the calligraphy is. Some have whimsical and philosophical phrases, and others are clever puns with the word tea.







Crappy Gabby translate time: 
window shade: These days I wish (I) had nothing to do.
Framed piece: More than just "protecting" me I wish you'd watch over me, More than just "expecting" (things of) me I wish you'd wait for me.
UNGH translating is so hard. I can't convey how similar these comparing phrases sound in Korean which makes it so much more meaningful... JUST KNOW THAT IT'S BEAUTIFUL AND THAT DARIN IS AMAZING. Oh and have I mentioned that she is amazing?






Once you've finished goggling at the amazing interior you better do what you came to do and order that tea~ Let's take a look at the menu:


Okay, okay. For those of you who don't read Korean, relax. I honestly can't explain this whole menu to you because I'm a tea idiot. BUT basically everything is delicious and you can't go wrong. The majority of your options are tea that you can brew yourself and drink more and more of (you get a little kettle with additional hot water). There are a few though that Darin mixes herself into a stew like tea and it comes in a really big cup (and you don't get refills).

The below two (adorable) cups show the difference. Right is a giant cup of jujube stew tea. Left is an ity-bity cup of yum yum green tea. (You can tell I know a lot about this stuff with these very accurate names). 



Unlike myself, Darin really does know her stuff. You can just ask her for something like if you're really cold, or tired, or you've got cramps, or want something light. She will know exactly what to give you. Each person has to order at least one tea (no ordering just one to share!) and it comes with all kinds of different mini tea snacks (that she also often MAKES HERSELF).
No matter what you order, it'll be fantastic, and only 6,000 won.



(cough my mini pumpkin pies appear again! cough)




(Oh isn't that paper lantern behind Monica really pretty? Guess what? YEAH DARIN PAINTED THAT TOO)

photo by Darin



Oh hey DARIN IS AMAZING.


I go to the tea house whenever I can, since it's now the only way I can see my friend. But also because I'm Darin's fan club president, I mean what? We are friends...



I had a really quiet birthday since no one in town really knew about it (I feel stupid telling people it's my birthday, like hey! Make me feel special. Right now.) But Darin's birthday is just two days after mine, so I went to surprise her and she actually insisted we celebrate together. Her whole family came out to eat cake and sang to both of us and GAH it made me so happy. They are the sweetest bestest people.





JUST KNOW THAT DARIN IS AMAZING. SO GO TO THIS TEA HOUSE AND GIVE HER YOUR MONEY ALREADY.


Want more info? Want to make a reservation (at the tea house or pension)?  Lucky you I took pictures of Darin's business cards~

You do know that if you click on the pictures they get bigger, right?

Also be sure to check out www.paroho.kr
their website which has tons of professional photos and more info (if you can read Korean...)

See you there~ 
Gabadedee


Hwacheon is prettier than your... place. Yeah.
Photo credit to Darin + her drone skillz